Best Analog Watches 2025

1. Zach Weiss

One of the best experiences at Watches & Wonders is simply being surprised. We often go into meetings having already read the press releases, and thus pretty much know what to expect. Well, this year I had the rare and fun opportunity to go in fairly blind to my meeting with Angelus as I simply hadn’t gone through their materials yet, and as a relatively quiet “indie” (quotes because they are technically under the umbrella of Citizen, though clearly operate independently), their watches hadn’t been splashed across my social media yet. So, with fresh eyes, I was presented this year’s main novelty, a trio of exceptional chronographs that I haven’t stopped thinking about since.

In 2023, Angelus debuted the Le Fabrique collection via a collaboration with Massena LAB called the Chronographe Médical. A spiritual recreation of an archival piece, this monopusher chronograph with a combined pulsometer and respirometer index featured a very cool movement, the caliber A5000, manufactured by La Joux Perret (a sister brand under Citizen). A small, thin, manual wound movement, it was designed by F.P. Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter for the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph in the late 90s. So a movement with some excellent provenance, if you’re into that kind of thing.

2. Zach Kazan

I hate to be that guy, but the best stuff I saw during Watches & Wonders week that I really want to write about are watches that are protected by embargoes for the time being (and, notably, not part of Watches & Wonders at all). I know, I know, nobody likes a tease, but it’s true. I’ll say this, however: the watches I’m thinking of are watches that are accessible (depending on how you define that term, but pretty accessible) and would seem to have a strong likelihood of being available for anyone reading this to handle and observe for themselves at a certain watch show happening later this year in a big American city. 

OK, that annoying disclaimer out of the way, I’m ready to pick a favorite among the watches I can talk about. Honestly, there are lots of great options, many of which have been gobbled up by our contributors for this very article (I instituted a strict no repeats rule, and am making my pick after seeing everyone else’s, which is frustrating one level because maybe I’d have written about the Grand Seiko that Christoph chose, but really illuminates the diversity and quality of watches at this year’s event). Early on in the show, at only my second meeting, in fact, I saw a watch at Czapek that I’d later post to Instagram with the caption “Probably my favorite from Day 1.” And you know what? I’m still just as enamored with the Antarctique Flying Tourbillon as I was on that first day.

3. Meg Tocci

Amidst discussions of high-frequency movements and gladiator-style battles for the world’s thinnest tourbillon in the Coliseum of the Palexpo (at least, that’s how I imagine Watches & Wonders from my position stateside), my attention was on the old, not the new. TAG Heuer’s revival of the Formula 1 models from the 1980s and 90s were a colorful reach into the past coupled with a modern spin.

The introduction of the Solargraph TH50-00 caliber is the biggest change to these fan favorites, but there have been updates to the dimensions as well. The new 38mm diameter (the original was 35mm) will likely appeal to many, including non-watch normies who are just fans of F1. The modern diameter gives the watch a bit of a different wrist profile than its predecessor, but nearly forty years have passed since its original release in 1986. That feels like a reasonable amount of time for the watch to grow three millimeters.

4. Alec Dent

I’m a sucker for a traditional dress watch, and there are few brands out there that can do one as well as Laurent Ferrier, as shown, once again, by his latest release at Watches & Wonders: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon.

The LFCAH is a straightforward take on a dress watch. It has a curvy 40mm case silhouette — the hallmark of Lauren Ferrier’s Classic line — a seconds subdial, and a date window at the 3 o’clock. This is the second Classic Auto model, but while the first was produced in a dusky tan, this new version has a striking ice-blue dial. It’s beautiful to look at, and the contrasting white gold needle-point indices, a black crosshair motif in the center, and an elongated sloping date window complete the look. The exhibition caseback reveals a beautifully finished movement that oozes luxury just as much as the front of the watch.

It’s exciting to see Laurent Ferrier continue the Classic Auto line, and I’m looking forward to seeing what’s next in the line. (Maybe, I dare to dream, slightly smaller versions?) Laurent Ferrier.

5. Christoph McNeill

If you’ve ever read anything by me, my choice for my favorite piece from Watches & Wonders 2025 will be no surprise. Like last year, I can’t help but select the newest offering from Grand Seiko, the SLGB003 Spring Drive U.F.A. from the Evolution 9 Collection. While last year’s pick featured a hi-beat manual wind movement with 80 hour power reserve, this year’s gem showcases their newly designed Spring Drive caliber 9RB2 movement, a masterful achievement in accuracy.

The new 9RB2 movement, through improvements in design, manufacturing and processing, achieves an accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per year! Not per month, but per year, which is simply an astonishing feat and currently, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. If you hadn’t already guessed, U.F.A. stands for “Ultra Fine Accuracy”, a well deserved designation. The movement is of course finished beautifully, and can be seen through the sapphire exhibition back, along with the 72 hour power reserve indicator.